Q&A: How To Make It Angry

Questions regarding my projects and papier mache regularly fill my mailbox. In an effort to answer these questions and share information some of these questions will be regularly featured on this blog.

Stephanie wrote:

“I am currently working on a tombstone. I am trying to have a 3-d skull face on the tombstone.

Now for my question--in everything I do, baseline sketches, doodles, etc...everything seems to come out happy, instead of scary, creepy or evil.

Do you have any suggestions for how to remedy this. Right now, my skull looks like a "happy redneck" :(

I understand this is your busy season, but I look forward to hearing from you! “

This has to be one of my favorite questions, in fact I’m still laughing at the concept of a “happy redneck” skull, I wish you had sent some pictures. Honestly I’m not probably the best person to answer this question but from my experience I have found that the shape and the angle of the eyes have the most dramatic impact regarding whether a character is a friend or a foe. Also pay attention to the angle of the eyebrows, position of the nose and shape of the mouth.

Here is a cool link that that allows you to change the features of a virtual face. Pay close attention to the differences between “happy” and “angry.” Note the position of the eyes and brows and also study the relationship of the nose and the mouth.

Another good reference is looking at yourself in the mirror, make different faces and note how the muscles in your face work. If you squint your eyes study how the muscles in your cheeks and mouth change. You can also spend some time studying photos on line, simply do an image search on google for “evil faces” and you will get tons of examples. Note the common characteristics of faces people consider evil and incorporate those features into your own artwork.

Hope this helps!

Q&A: How Do You . . . ?

Questions regarding my projects and papier mache regularly fill my mailbox. In an effort to answer these questions and share information some of these questions will be regularly featured on this blog.

Eric wrote:

“How do you do your paper mache? What is the mix you use? What is paper mache clay? I did not see it in your web site.”

Mindie wrote:

“I love your pumpkins! I was wanting to know which paper mache recipes you use. “

Juan also wrote:

“For the clay recipe you ask for paste, is that the paste from the mache recipe or a different type of paste. Your stuff is great thanks for the help.”

The answers are found in a post on my website called The Basics.
The article covers paste and clay recipes, templates and weatherproofing.

Hope this helps.

Q&A: Clay Issues

Questions regarding my projects and papier mache regularly fill my mailbox. In an effort to answer these questions and share information some of these questions will be regularly featured on this blog.

Erik wrote:

“I have followed your instuctions on your website. However, the clay recipe is a bit tricky. It is now 6 days later and my clay is still not dry. Can you help me any? Maybe restate the recipe?”

Clay recipe:

My clay is made by putting approximately six cups of paste into a large bowl, next add approximately one cup of drywall joint compound to the paste. Mix the paste and joint compound together thoroughly with a hand mixer. Now start mixing cellulose fiber insulation into the paste/compound solution, keep adding insulation until the mixture is a firm and workable consistency.

There are several issues that determine the drying time of paper clays..

Th The first consideration is the thickness of the clay that is drying. When I use the above papier mache clay recipe I typically never apply the clay thicker than a ½ inches. Once dry I will add more clay and allow to dry and so on. Work with small amounts.

The second factor is airflow. Placing props in an area where there is no air movement is not a good idea. When drying papier mache clay I always use multiple fans, the moving air removes the moisture allowing a ½ inch thickness of clay to completely dry in about 48 hours.

The third consideration is humidity. Props left to dry in highly humid environments will not dry, in fact if you have used a flour based paste they could even potentially start to mold. Dry props in a non-humid environment with ample air flow. Dehumidifiers are a good bet when working in humid environments.

The combination of these three tips should prevent any drying issues; small thicknesses, airflow and low humidity. If you have further questions send me an email.

Hope this helps.

Q&A: Demon Templates

Questions regarding my projects and papier mache regularly fill my mailbox. In an effort to answer these questions and share information some of these questions will be regularly featured on this blog.

Heather wrote:

“I was wondering what you used for the stencil in the demon skulls? and if you have any pointers. I was having a bit of trouble with them. “

The demon designs are a variation on the skull templates I regularly use when creating props requiring human like faces.

My advice would be to create a basic skull template using the directions found here. Replace the human eye sockets and such with your own version of what you believe a demon would look like; think sharp angled eye sockets and noses. Play around with your design and remember that your two dimensional concept will ultimately be rendered in three dimensions.

I’ve been asked repeatedly if I will send or supply templates or patterns for projects and I always answer no, it’s not because I’m being stingy or selfish but rather the template design should be your own creation, the result of your imagination, not mine.

Have fun with the process, you will surprise (and impress) yourself with the result.

Hope this helps.

Q&A: Removing Newspaper

Questions regarding my projects and papier mache regularly fill my mailbox. In an effort to answer these questions and share information some of these questions will be regularly featured on this blog.

Stacey wrote:

“When I was little and did paper mache, we used inflated balloons as the base. We would then pop the balloon leaving our shape. You talk about using plastic bags, newspaper, etc., so my question is: How do you then remove the paper mache from the shape without destroying it? For example, if I used a big balled up piece of newspaper as a mold for a skull, how would I get it out of the skull?”

When using a plastic bag to armature for a skull or pumpkin the newspaper is removed from the form after several layers of strip mache have been applied and thoroughly dried. The crumpled newspaper is removed by cutting a small circle on the bottom and taking the newspaper out through the opening.

The plastic bag/newspaper armature is also used when I create spider bodies or gargoyle heads, but in this case I do not remove the newspaper because neither of these pieces need to be hollow. Pumpkins need to be hollow if you want to light the jack o’lantern from within and skulls need to be hollow in order to create deep eye sockets.

Hope this helps!

Q&A: Cellulose Fiber Insulation

Q&A: Cellulose Insulation

Questions regarding my projects and papier mache regularly fill my mailbox. In an effort to answer these questions and share information some of these questions will be regularly featured on this blog.

Chet wrote:

“What brand and where are you getting the cellulose fiber insulation?”

No problem.

The brand name of the cellulose fiber insulation I use is made by Regal available at Lowes. I preface this by saying that it is available at Lowes in Michigan but I’m not sure as to its availability in the warmer states.

My suggestion is to check the availability at your local home improvement store and if it’s not in stock inquire about special delivery.

Hope this helps.

Q&A: Sentinels

Questions regarding my projects and papier mache regularly fill my mailbox. In an effort to answer these questions and share information some of these questions will be regularly featured on this blog.

Jason wrote:

“What can be used other than the starch bottles ? I just don't use starch.”

Austin wrote:

“Hi, I was reading about how to make the halloween sentinals and i was just wondering what you used for the arms,hands, and collar bones. Thank you.”

The answer to the first question is any object will work to create the body armature for the Sentinels, I used starch bottles because I use liquid starch in my paste but any similiarily size and shaped bottle would work. Items that come to mind would be plastic juice containers, laundry detergent bottles, two liter pop bottles. My only advice would to make sure the container was relatively strong and resistant to crushing.

The arms, hands and collar bones were created from sheets of newspaper rolled into tubes then assembled with hot glue and tape to make the armature. The newspaper rolls were wrapped with masking tape for strength then coated with several layers of strip mache.

When creating the rib cage armatures for my creatures I always reference a photo or illustration of the human skeleton. The rolled tube of newspaper was flattened and bent to create the basic shape for the collarbone.

Fingers were created from small tubes of rolled newspaper and utility wire inserted into each finger.

Each finger was hot glued to a piece of corrugated cardboard cut into the shape of a palm.

Basic shapes all assembled to create the desired form.

The tutorial for the Sentinels can be found here.

Q&A: Cracking Clay

Questions regarding my projects and papier mache regularly fill my mailbox. In an effort to answer these questions and share information some of these questions will be regularly featured on this blog.

Judy wrote:

“I tried to make your clay, but it came out runny. It wasn't thick enough to roll out at all. I am wondering if while adding the cornstarch if I need to keep it on the heat? I don't know what else I may have done wrong.

Maybe you can give me some hints..? "

Unfortunately I mix up mache recipes the same way I cook and that’s to never measure anything and keep adding ingredients until it works.

My guess on the cracking clay recipe is that it was a combination of heat and lack of cornstarch. When making cornstarch based clays the heat will cause the mixture to congeal, the clay almost takes on a gel type of quality.

The mixture needs to stay on the heat until it congeals, if it’s not happening try adding some more cornstarch. The paste and clay recipes I use are based on a lot of trial and error so you may have to experiment a little to make it work.

Here’s the link to the Ancient Skull tutorial which uses the cracking clay.

Q&A: Weather Proofing

Questions regarding my projects and papier mache regularly fill my mailbox. In an effort to answer these questions and share information some of these questions will be regularly featured on this blog.

Johnny wrote:

“ If you could tolerate being asked advice for probably the hundredth time on the same topic:

This is the first time I'll use paper mache props in my haunt and they'll be outside for the whole month of October. We'll typically have 1 or 2 rains during that time. Temperatures may vary from 30 to 80 degrees during the month; btw I'm in southeast Mississippi.

I'm doing strip mache with a water/liquid starch mix. Everything gets at least two coats of exterior enamel before the detailing.

What are the chances my props will hold up to the elements for a month, or should I protect them more when not in use? “

Protecting papier mache from the elements is probably the most frequently asked question.

Exterior paints whether latex or enamel provides the first level of protection against moisture but paint alone is not enough. All papier mache that is going to be used outdoors needs a coat of sealant in order to withstand moisture from not only rain but also humidity. Basically any product designed to seal wood will work on papier mache. Products such as spar urethane, polyurethane, varnish and shellac work.

A few things to remember:

1. Most sealants have a glossy finish which may not be desirable for many props. Who wants shiny tombstones? The solution is to seal the papier mache before painting, this way the paper is protected and the paint will cover the gloss.

2. Cover all surfaces. Sealants only work if all exposed papier mache surfaces are thoroughly covered. If you have created something that is hollow such as a skull or pumpkin take the time to seal the interior because unsealed papier mache whether strips or clay will absorb moisture.

3. You get what you pay for. From my experience I have found that cheap or inexpensive sealants do not protect as well as more expensive products. My preferred sealant is Spar Urethane which costs about $30 per gallon. Here is some more info on Spar Urethane.

4. Read the warning label. Most sealants produce harsh, flammable and toxic fumes. Follow the manufacturers guidelines and use only in well ventilated areas with the proper safety gear.

5. If your props do become soft from moisture don’t panic, simply place them in front of a fan in a dry environment and they will come back to their former glory.

My papier mache props are only displayed for about a week before Halloween and during this time I really pay attention to the weather.

Living in Michigan we get every imaginable weather condition during October including extreme heat, wind, rain, hail and have even had snow accumulation. The best advice is to use common sense, if you know it’s going to downpour then make the effort to move your props to a safe place or cover them.

Papier mache is surprising durable but take measures to prevent them from being exposed to harsh elements.

Here is an additional link to an article published last year.

Q&A: Frog Legs

Questions regarding my projects and papier mache regularly fill my mailbox. In an effort to answer these questions and share information some of these questions will be regularly featured on this blog.

Verla wrote:

“ I am trying to make a monster frog any need to know the inches of the legs pieces. I hate to give him puny legs. Any help would be great. Thanks, Verla”

The length of the legs used to create my frogs was 8.5 inches, these legs were used on a body that was 16 inches long so my advice would be to make each leg segment approximately half the length of the body.

Example: If the body of your frog measures 20 inches long then make each leg segment over 10 inches in length.

When I created the patterns for this project it was basically trial and error. The sizes are not based on any anatomical specs but rather on what looked best to the eye.

Here are some photos of the templates or patterns that were used to create my papier mache frogs, the complete tutorial can be found here.

Hope this helps!

Templates

There have been many requests for copies of the templates I use to create my props.

For the record I do not supply the templates.

The techniques used to create the templates can be found at http://www.stolloween.com/?page_id=29, the technique is simple and straightforward.

Supplying templates would result in everyone creating identical looking props.

Learning to create your own templates allows you to make props with your own unique style and flair.